Dimon372 писал(а):
Что-то вы не то советуете. Экструдер надо калибровать по длине подаваемого прутка. Если у вас на 100мм програмных подается 100мм реальных, а печатается плохо - надо смотреть диаметр прутка и настройки слайсера. Калибровать экструдер под конкретный пруток - глупо.
Вот тут, помимо калибровки по длине подаваемого прутка, есть еще точная калибровка, я описывал выше.
http://reprap.org/wiki/Triffid_Hunter%2 ... tion_GuideЦитирую:
"E Steps Fine Tuning
Now, with everything very close to ideal values, we can finally dial E steps in that final little bit!
Find an object with flat tops on a number of levels, such as this cube stack test
Slice at 95% rectilinear infill. Use the lowest layer height you're comfortable with - the lower the layer height used for this test, the finer your resulting E steps calibration will be. I use 0.2mm for first run, and if I'm feeling ambitious I'll repeat this process at 0.1mm.
Print.
Ignore the first 5-6 layers because they're too sensitive to the exact height of the first layer. If it's obviously over-filling or under-filling, alter E steps or Z=0 point and restart the print.
Observe infill. If you can't see tiny little gaps between the lines, reduce E steps by 0.5% every 2 layers until you can see tiny gaps.
Observe solid top layers. If you can see tiny gaps, increase E steps by 0.5% every 2 layers until there's no gaps in the top.
Send the new E steps to your printer with M92 Ennn without even pausing the print - you will see the result in a couple of layers when the change is this small.
Goto 5 until the infill has tiny gaps AND the solid top layers do not.
Now, your E steps value is extremely fine-tuned! Save this value in your firmware's configuration and flash to make permanent."
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